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Source: Hodgdon Data Manual, 26th Edition
Originally an alternate military cartridge, the 223 (5.56 x 45mm) is now the official U.S. and NATO military round. It should also be noted that NATO forces, including the U.S., have standardized a new 5.56 x 45mm round with a heavy bullet and the M193 is no longer standard.
Shortly after the military adopted the cartridge, Remington brought out the sporting version, which has largely replaced the 222 Remington and 222 Remington Magnum in popularity. Practically every manufacturer of bolt action rifles has at least one model chambered for the 223. In addition, there are a large number of military type semi-auto rifles available in this caliber. At one time the Remington Model 760 slide action was available in the 223.
Source: Cartridges of the World, 8th Edition 1997
The 223 Remington has proven to be an effective military cartridge for fighting in the jungle or forested areas and for close-in fire support, and has been improved lately by NATO with heavier (SS109 designed by FN of Belgium) bullets fired through a fast twist (1 in 7 inch) barrels. As a sporting round, it is just as accurate as any other long range, centerfire, 22's. Military brass cases are usually heavier than commercial cases so maximum loads should be reduced by at least 10% and approached cautiously. That is because the reduced case capacity results in a higher loading density and increased pressure with the same powder charge. The 223 Remington can be classed as an excellent medium range varmint cartridge at ranges out to 250 yards.
Source: Cartridges of the World, 8th Edition 1997
Match grade, hollow point bullets are fine for target shooting with the .223 but they often don't open quick enough for the explosive expansion needed for varmints such as groundhogs humanely at the longer ranges. Best bet for shooting varmints with this cartridge are the Speer TNT, Nosler Expander, Hornady Super Explosive (SX), and Sierra Blitz bullets, with their soft lead cores and extremely thin jackets. For competitive shooting, the Hornady 68 grain and the Sierra 69 grain hollow point bullets are excellent wind buckers but require a rifling twist rate of 1-7 to 1-8 inches for stabilization. Most sporting rifles have rifling pitch rates of 1-12 or 1-14 inches.
Source: Hodgdon Data Manual, 26th Edition
Case preparation tools:
Primer Pocket Reamer
This reamer is used to true up the primer pocket. It reams the floor of the pocket flat so the primer will seat fully in contact with the brass. The reamer is the cylinder to the left with the actual cutter being the protrusion to the left. Also pictured is a handle which will allow the use of the reamer by hand, but the best way to use it, is to chuck it in a power drill and apply the cases to the spinning reamer.
Primer Flash Hole Reamer
This reamer is used to true up the flash hole in the bottom of the case through which the primer ignites the powder charge. It is inserted through the case mouth and spun to uniform the flash hole and remove any metal burrs that may be left over from the drilling process. The cases can not have been neck-sized smaller than the shaft of the reamer. Some commercially prepared brass has been neck-sized smaller than the reamer shaft. The conical collar allows one to set the reamer depth. The actual reamer is the tip sticking out of the left end of the tube. Best way to use the tool is to chuck it in a power drill and feed the cases by hand. I can do about 500 cases in a couple of hours.
Case Mouth Chamfer Tool
One of my favorite tools, just because it looks cool. It is used to bevel the edge of the case mouth, both the inside and outside edges. When cases are trimmed, small burrs or roughness may be left on the edges. Even a perfect edge may shave jacket material from a bullet during seating. Chamfering the inside edge will prevent shaving the bullet and make seating easier. Chamfering the outside edge will make chambering more consistent. Don't over do the chamfering or you will create a sharp case mouth. In fact, in this way you can create leather punches of various sizes from various caliber cases. As pictured the left end of the tool chamfers the inside edge of the case mouth, and the right side chamfers the outside edge. Note the pilot rod on the outside edge side. Also pictured (right) is a holder that allows the tool to be chucked into a power drill.
disassembled
This gauge measures the length of your rifle's chamber. It will help you determine the maximum length of your brass.
The gauge is the leaded steel plug to the left of the lower case. Note the thicker collar at the left end of the gauge. This collar is the same diameter as the SAAMI specs for the outside diamter for the .223 Remington case neck. The plug portion of the gauge is close to 0.223". Note that the lower case neck is shorter than the upper case neck. Before using the gauge a special case must be prepared by shortening the neck so that when the gauge is completely inserted in the case neck the case length is shorter than your chamber. After shortening the case neck, clean up and smooth the edges, then run the case through a full-length resizing die with neck sizing - either a collet, a button, or both. You may want to chamfer the shortened neck. The gauge should be held firmly in the case neck. I drilled the flash hole out on my case so I could insert a squared off 16 penny nail to push out the gauge.
assembled
To use, insert the gauge into the special case leaving it about 0.010" longer than your expected chamber dimension. Measure it, note the reading, then carefully chamber the gauge/case. Make sure that the bolt locks up. Eject the case carefully, you don't want it flying around. Measure the length. If it is shorter than the original measurement, then it's a valid measurement. If it is the same length, push the gauge out a little more and repeat until the ejected length is shorter than the chambered length. Once you know a valid starting point, take 5 measurements and average the results. This is the absolute maximum trimmed length of your brass. Note the rifle, the date, and the measurement.
Caliper, bullet, insert, and body
These are the component parts of the bullet comparator. The red part is the comparator body and will accept inserts for any caliber. The silver disk with the hole in it is the .223 insert. The insert is held in place by a hex set screw in the body - not visible in the photo. The hole in the insert is the same diameter as the bore of a .223 between the lands of the rifling. Standard .223 lands are 0.005", so the diameter of the hole is 0.213". The back of the body is slotted off-center with the knurled set screw to attach to your calipers. The off-set slot allows choosing the best alignment with your caliper. The 62 grain .223 bullet is just there as a size reference.
Assembled, mounted, & zeroed
This gauge measures the overall length (OAL) of the seated cartridge. The measurement is made from the case head (bottom) to a datum line on the ogive of the bullet - NOT THE TIP. The tips of bullets, even match bullets, can vary a lot. The datum line on the bullet is the point at which a standard 0.005" land will contact the bullet. For .223 this diameter is 0.213". This is why the Chamber and Comparator gauges should be used together.
SP-OAL Measurement. Here is the comparator being used to take a measurement. It's a little hard to read, but the caliper reads, 2.884", but the comparator is 1" and the calipers were zeroed in the photo above, so the true measurement is 1.884". The flat part of the insert can be used to get a to-the-tip measurement as well.
Ignore the black cylinder in the middle of the photo. It is not part of the Stoney Point gauge.
There are a few things to note. The thin brass rod sticking out of both ends of the red tube is a flexible rod. This rod slides in and out of the red tube, and is secured by the knurled set screw on the right. The case is an integral part of the gauge and must be bought with the gauge. The case head is drilled out and tapped so that it can be screwed onto the threads on the left end of the red tube. When this is done the flexible brass rod sticks out of the case mouth. By pulling the flexible brass rod to the right it can be retracted into the red tube and the bullet placed in the case mouth (it's a loose fit). See the next photo.
Then, by pushing the flexible brass rod in, the bullet seating can be adjusted. The rod, and hence bullet seating, is locked in place with the knurled set screw.
This gauge lets you measure the distance to the lands in your rifle with your bullet. Knowing this measurement, which changes over time due to throat erosion, will let you adjust the seating depth to any desired relationship with your rifling.
To take a measurement, retract the brass rod and insert the bullet deep into the case mouth. Insert the case end into the chamber and maintain some pressure to keep it there. Gently push in the flexible brass rod to extend the bullet. When the brass rod stops moving the bullet is in contact with the lands. Lock the knurled set screw and remove the gauge. Be sure to use the same amount of pressure for every measurement. Sometimes when removing the gauge, the bullet will remain in the bore. Gently knock the stock on the ground and the bullet will drop out. Since the rod is locked down, simply replacing the bullet will maintain the measurement.
Measure the OAL with the Stoney Point Chamber-All Bullet Comparator dscribed above. I take 10 measurements with 10 different bullets and average the results. Note the rifle, the date, the measurement, and save.
This gauge measures the headspace of a cartridge. Headspace on a cartridge is measured from the case head (bottom) to a datum line on the case shoulder, somewhere in the middle of the shoulder. By measuring fired brass you can get an accurate estimate of your chamber size and chamber headspace. Another, and better way to measure your chamber's headspace is to start with the measurement of a fired case and size a number of other cases upward in +0.001" increments. Try to chamber the incremetally sized cases in order until you find the one that will not chamber. The headspace of your chamber is the size of the last case to chamber. Use the gauge to help adjust your sizing die to size your brass 0.003"-0.005" under the fired size.
Above are the 2 halves of the RCS Precision Micrometer. On the right is the Body. On the left is the Headspace Nut. Both cylinders are tubes, with the Body screwing into the Headspace Nut. The case is inserted into the Body, then it is screwed into the Headspace Nut.
Here a case has been inserted in the Body. See next photo.
To take the measurement the Body is screwed into the Headspace Nut until the case shoulder contacts the inside of the hole in the Headspace Nut and it stops. I hold the gauge vertically, and when contact with the shoulder is made, twist the Nut back and forth 3 times, to even out the contact. Use the same light force for each measurement.
The measurement shown is almost -0.002" headspace. If you measure your fired brass with the same gauge you ever need to know the actual measurement, but the SAAMI minimum specification for .223 Remington is 1.4636". Therefore, 0.000" on the gauge corresponds to a headspace measurement of 1.4636" and the measurement displayed in the photo is about 1.462".
This gauge also comes with a WORTHLESS bullet comparator - DON'T USE IT. Use the gauge for headspace measurement only. Use the Stoney Point gauges described above for the bullet comparator measurements.
This is a full length sizing die with decapping rod and carbide sizing button for internal neck sizing. It also includes a neck sizing bushing for external neck sizing.
To determine bushing size, measure the outside neck diameter of your loaded cartridge with a precision micrometer. From this measurement subtract 0.002"-0.003". This allows for a 0.001" brass "spring-back" after sizing and will result in a proper bullet press fit of 0.001"-0.002".
Redding Competition Seating Rifle Die for .223
This die will allow you to set your seating depth to 0.001" accuracy and repeatability.
Everything mentioned here can be purchased from Sinclair International. Much of what is mentioned here can also be purchased from Midway USA.
Part Numbers: (double check all numbers in CURRENT catalog)
| Description | Sinclair# | Midway# |
| Sinclair Chamber Length Gauge | G-224 | NA |
| Flash hole deburrer | DB-1000 | 559-829 |
| Primer Pocket Uniformer | UN-8001 | 445-053 |
| Uniformer Chuck Adapter | UN-8005 | NA |
| Chamfer tool | 05-150 | 364-181 |
| Chamfer Chuck Adapter | 295-771 | 295-771 |
| Stoney Point OAL gauge | CFG-2000 | 479-963 |
| Stoney Point OAL gauge case | CFG-223 | 290-405 |
| Stoney Point Bullet comparator | BC-2000 | 709-931 |
| Stoney Point Bullet comparator insert | BC-224 | 727-771 |
| RCBS Precision Mic | 88304 | 477-756 |
| Redding Type S FL die | RD77111 | NA |
| Redding Type S neck insert | RD76245 | 888-245 |
| Redding Seating die | RD55111 | 531-039 |
The Scharch brass is cleaned, sized, and trimmed, but you want to size it again yourself. Size 100 cases to start with. Be sure to keep your sized brass separate. Lanolin based sizing lube can be washed off with water and diswashing detergent. Put the slimey, sized brass in a pan and cover with hot tap water. Squirt a bit of dishwashing detergent into the pan and swirl and schmush and stir the brass around. Rinse obsessively and drain. Put brass on a cookie sheet and place in 200F oven for a couple of hours. It may sound like a hassle, but rinsing and draining takes only a few minutes of your time. This is much easier and cleaner than using a tumbler to remove sizing lube.
Deburr all the primer flash holes, and uniform the primer pocket. It may be easier to chuck the deburrer into an electric drill or screwdriver. Then chamfer the inside and outside of the case mouth. Again an electric drill is a big help. Set all your fully prepared cases in a separate and well marked location.
After the above case preperation I sort my brass into 0.5 grain lots. .223 cases weigh around 90.0 grains. The idea is that weight sorted brass has more uniform case capacities.
Measure 10 fired cases using the RCBS Precision Micrometer (RCBS-PM). Average these measurements, note date and save.
Insert the sizing die in the press. Subtract 0.003" from the average value found with the RCBS-PM. This is your target case size. Lift the ram to the toolhead. Screw the sizing die all the way down to the shellplate then back off a full turn. Lube an unsized case and insert in shellplate. Size, measure, and adjust die downward until you hit your target. MINUTE CHANGES IN THE SIZING DIE POSITION WILL GREATLY AFFECT THE MEASUREMENTS. Expect to waste at least 5 cases. Check sizing after locking die in place.
Based on the length of your bullets and the average maximum OAL decide on how far off or into the lands you want the bullets seated. DO NOT GO MORE THAN A FEW THOUSANDTHS INTO THE LANDS, e.g., 0.002". Some believe that the less bullet jump to the lands the more accurate the load. Be warned, however, that seating bullets out close to the lands can create cartridges that are too long for magazine feeding. A rule of thumb is to start off the lands by 1/10th the caliber. For .223 start 0.020" off the lands.
Take an unsized case, chamfer the mouth, then using a hack saw and fine blade cut a slot across the case mouth. This can be a single cut at only one position or 2 cuts forming a diameter. This will create a case in which you can insert a bullet and set your seating die, then remove the bullet. Smooth all rough edges so as not to mar the bullets or the seating die. Once the case is cut and smoothed, lube it and size it. Clean the lube off. Put it in the shellplate and adjust the seating die to achieve your desired seating depth.