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I use Dawn dishwashing detergent to degrease my bullets. You can probably use any number of detergents and get equally satisfactory results, but I can only vouch for Dawn, because that is all I have used. I'd stay away from stuff with scents or hand conditioners, as both these are often oil based.
Use disposable plasticware, such as the ZipLoc brand. These are great for reloading organization, and are no great loss if destroyed or lead contaminated. A 1 quart size will easily handle 500 52 grain .223 bullets. Pour the bullets into the plastic ware. Squirt a generous shot of Dawn on top of the bullets, then fill with hot water, leaving a 1/2" airspace in the container, before snapping down the lid. Gently agitate the contents. Be careful. The hot air and foam will expand and vent out from under the lid, so do this in a sink. Shake the container more and more violently as the venting subsides. The water inside will turn to foam.
Do not touch the bullets with your bare hands from now on.
After a few minutes of agitation, open the lid and rinse obsessively well. You can not rinse too much. Again, do not touch the bullets with your bare hands. If you do you will simply get hand oils on the bullets. You may want to use latex gloves. If you do, be sure to wash the gloves with Dawn prior to handling the bullets. Latex gloves are manufactured using a mold releasing agent and then are often powdered to ease putting them on. Just put on the gloves and wash your hands using Dawn dishwashing detergent.
When the bullets are completely rinsed, pour them onto a shallow pan lined with foil. Level out the bullets into a single layer (don't touch with your hands) and place in the oven. Bake at 250F for 15 minutes, or until a toothpick in the center comes out clean. Seriously, after the oven has come to temperature you can turn it off and forget it for a few hours until the bullets are cool enough to handle.
If your water is hard you may need to hand dry the bullets before final drying in the oven. Just pour them on a clean, freshly laundered towel (no fabric softener), fold the towel over and schmush them around. If hard water is allowed to dry on the bullets a residue will be left behind. This may interfere with the plating process.
The bullets can be stored in the same plastic container in which they were washed. Use a clean paper towel to dry the container completely. They can also be stored in a new ziplock plastic bag. In any case, do not touch them with your bare hands.
Personally, I consider moly safe. However, I don't eat it with a spoon and I don't use it as snuff. I may or may not use latex gloves to handle the bullets as I am reloading, but I do avoid sucking my thumb until I've thoroughly scrubbed my hands. Just like the dust from my case cleaning media I avoid breathing the moly dust.
I used the steel shot from about 12 #1 shot shells. Hey, it's what I had. I degreased the shot in the same way I degreased the bullets, however, you need to towel dry the shot, then finish it up in the oven, or you risk rust.
Use your judgement on the size of the vitamin bottles, 150CC work pretty well. Screw caps are a must because they have to seal perfectly to keep the powdered moly in. You use 2 vitamin bottles to keep the case cleaner balanced. You can use a single 300CC bottle if being unbalanced does not bother you.
Fill the vitamin bottles about 1/3-1/2 full of the shot. Put an equal number of bullets in the two bottles. No need to get anal, just get close. Leave some headspace in the bottles for everything to rattle around. The first time you use the system you will use about twice the amount of moly you will on subsequent batches, because you have to plate the bullets and the shot and the inside of the bottles. Once the shot and bullets are in the bottles, put about 1/4 tsp of powdered moly in each bottle. Now you can see why a pound of moly is a lifetime supply. Screw the caps on tightly and secure with tape. Bury the bottles in your cleaning media on opposite sides of the vibratory case cleaner. Seal it up and let it run for 3 hours. It may be rather noisey. As you do more batches and gain some experience, you can adjust the amount of moly used in each bottle, probably downward, as necessary.
A light timer is a handy thing to have for your case cleaner. You can set it for 3 hours and forget it. Just remember to come back to it within 24 hours or it will start up again.
A note about case cleaning media: It's a toxic substance, particularly the dust. If you clean cases with the primers still in then the media will have a load of lead in it. Even if you deprime before cleaning, the media will contain enough lead to be potentially harmful. I have taken to doing all my case cleaning outside, and using latex gloves to handle the media. You can do whatever you want.
When the 3 hours are up. Let the cleaner sit for 10-15 minutes to settle the dust inside, then open it up and remove the vitamin bottles. You now need to separate the shot from the bullets. Powdered moly is pernicious stuff. The tiny particle size means that it will go right through most fabrics. Before pouring the contents of the bottles onto a shop rag use a piece of backing carboard under the rag. When finished throw away the rag.
I have made a small strainer out of a plastic yogurt cup. Not that I eat yogurt - yuck - but I know people who do. Drill holes large enough for the shot and too small for the bullets in the yogurt cup. Lay them out with graph paper if you want to be neat. Then, place the yogurt cup inside a larger plastic cup, and pour the bullets and shot into the yogurt cup. Gently shake the shot to bottom of the outer cup. Pour the bullets onto a rag (use cardboard under the rag!) and schmush them around to wipe off the excess moly. Return the shot to the vitamin bottles and store the vitamin bottles, the strainer, and cup for the next batch.
The bullets should be silver-gray and completely and smoothly plated. You should not be able to scrape the plating off with a fingernail. Cannulured bullets will not plate in the cannulure.